Today I found out how to test a car alternator. Equipment needed: multi-meter. If the alternator is working well, your multi-meter should read somewhere in the vicinity of 14 volts typically If it is reading excessively higher than 14 volts greater than 15 volts it is possible that the voltage regulator on your alternator is faulty or going bad.
If it is reading lower than volts, there are a number of possibilities as to the reason. Try revving up the engine to RPM or higher and take a reading. If the voltage is still too low, check to be sure all the connectors on your alternator are tight and that the alternator belt is not slipping and is spinning on the pulley correctly.
A car alternator needs to be putting out at least volts ideally between When a battery is near fully charged the alternator will cease to put out sufficient voltage to charge the battery and the reading you will get from the battery probing method will simply be the voltage coming from the battery itself. In this case, you can simply leave your lights on with the car off for ten or fifteen minutes to drain your battery a little bit.
It can also be helpful to test at the battery terminals with the engine off and then turn the car on and test again at the terminals. If your battery is more or less fully charged, it should read at around volts with the car off.
Corey Davis: Sorry, but with a magnetic screw driver, on any metal part will stick. That test is to be done as follows: With a non magnetic tip screwdriver, or any piece of metal, with the car running, touch the back of the alternator, and there should be magnetism.
The test of removing the battery cable to test the alternator was used for vehicles made before !
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Do not do this, as it can cause a major electrical system malfunction. You can also fry electronic parts of your car like that. Costing more in damage than an electrical tester wound cost.
While this may work for you, it never a good Idea to disconnect the battery when the engine is running. Pulling the positive lead with the car running will win you a Darwin Award. Daven needs more electrical engineering classes because putting the other lead on the alternator housing will not ground it out.
The housing is grounded to the engine which is grounded to the frame, therefor no differant than touching the lead to the grounded frame.When you upgrade your car audioit's important to consider the extra power requirements that come along with a beefed-up sound system. Your factory alternator may be enough, or it might not cut it. The question usually isn't if you need a stronger alternator, but how much bigger it needs to be, and how much is too much.
Signs & Symptoms of Poor Ground Connection in an Auto Battery
As an example that trends closer to the ridiculous than the likely, let's say that you determine that your new sound system, plus the preexisting power requirements of your car, add up to well over A.
For a safety net, you decide on a A alternator. You can rest easy that the only downside to an alternator that's too big is that it's a waste of money, and it won't damage your electrical system. The amperage rating on an alternator is basically just the amount of current that the unit is capable of putting out, not the amount it always puts out.
So if all of the electronics in your car, put together, only draw 60A, then your beastly A alternator will only produce 60A. The way that current works is that any given electrical component will only draw as much amperage as it needs to operate.
Since amperage is a function of wattage divided by volts, it essentially works based on supply and demand — the alternator only supplies as much amperage as each component demands. The alternator generates enough amperage to meet the needs of the combined electrical system at any given time, and then each component draws its share.
In order to determine how much amperage a component is going to draw, you can divide its wattage by the voltage of the system. Every electrical component in your car needs to draw some amount of amperage to function. If you don't make any modifications or add any additional electronics, then you'll typically be just fine with the stock alternator.
The issue is that factory alternators typically run right up against the ragged edge in terms of factory component requirements, so installing any power-hungry aftermarket equipment can lead to a lack of enough power to go around.
That can manifest as flickering or dim headlights, or your engine may even die. In some circumstances, overloading an already anemic factory alternator can even lead to early failure. And if you just replace the broken down alternator with another one that has the same specifications, the same thing will probably just happen again. Most basic audio components don't draw too much amperage.
For instance, a standard head unit with a built-in amp might draw less than 10A. In comparison, typical headlights are also about a 10A draw, a defroster can pull up to 15A, and air conditioning typically draws more than 20A.
In a lot of cases, you can upgrade to an aftermarket radio without worrying too much about installing a high output alternator. However, there are cases where you'll clearly end up piling on more than the factory alternator can handle.Now alternator doesn't charge at all.
When car is off it's at Just replaced alternator again. Could a bad ground be killing them or the ELD electronic load detector.Chrome settings url
How do i test for a bad alt ground with a multimeter. The ELD is probably the poorest understood part of the Honda electrical system. It monitors the current drain on the battery and alternator together and asks the ECU to increase alternator output over-riding the regulator, in effect if the drain is too great. A bad ELD can result in excessive charge voltage at low drain fan and headlights off or undervoltage at high drain lights on, fan on high, sound system cranked way up and a travel refrigerator plugged into the lighter socket but it won't cause failure to charge.
Honda alternators I know of do not have a separate ground - they rely on the frame.Power company hackerrank solution
If you have put in an aftermarket alternator, the alternator is my top suspect. They have a terrible reputation for a reason. Chances are if its bolted in, you have good ground, but if you want to test the ground here are two ways. Attach one end to the battery ground and touch the other end to the body of the alternator, see if the volts on the meter fluctuates. Jason X. Answer Save. FlagMichael Lv 7. Favorite Answer. You don't mention make, model, or year, but if it has an ELD it must be a Honda product.
Source s : 35 years maintaining my own cars, including 8 years with my daughter's Accord and about 5 years helping my son with his Integra. Peter Lv 5. OR 2 Start the engine, put your meter set on DC volts on the battery and take a spare piece of wire, preferably 14 gauge or thicker.
Still have questions? Get your answers by asking now.But is the alternator grounded? I see that there are two spots on my mechman alternator to run wires to and they are both for 0 gauge. Do I need to ground to the engine block too or can I just ground straight from the alternator negative to battery negative? Honestly you can be perfect just grounding from your alts ground to the negative of your battery s. And in all honesty your engine is already grounded to the alternator since the bolts for your alternator go straight through the engine block.
What i did with my truck was to unscrew a long as hell bolt on the engine block and ground to that and grind the block a little bit until it had a smooth finish on it then i put the ground wire for the engine on that bolt and took it to the negative of my battery. I find it was a lot easier than to use the bolt that goes into the side of my engine to hold my alt in since my air compressor line is right on top of those bolts and its a pain in the ass to get to.
What id do if you have one is when you do your grounds, grab a digital multi meter and check your resistance with the grounds. To do this, take one of the probes and put it on the area where you are about to mount the ground on your engine and take the other probe and put it on the negative of your battery.
It should read a value of 0 ohms to. Nothing more.Internally shorted alternator pt2
But either way it doesnt really matter too much what bolt you take to ground the engine block off to, it is highly recommended to use the ground off your alternator since it is a lot easier to get to and connect to but if you choose to then its not a problem.
As long as you either ground to your alternators ground post or to the engine block itself then you will be all set. Your ground to go from your alternators ground post to the engine block is totally useless to do.Unscramble hillock
Just go from either your engines alternator ground point to the negative of your battery or take a grounding point from your engine to the negative of your battery. Either way it will be a good grounding point.
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Grounded out my Alternator!!!! No lights, No START!
Only 75 emoji are allowed. Display as a link instead. Clear editor. Upload or insert images from URL. Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring. Search In. Welcome to the SMD forum! Alternator Ground? Reply to this topic Start new topic. Recommended Posts. Posted April 10, Dumb question It's strange because I never saw anything in the big 3 upgrade for the alternator ground, lol. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites.
Grounded out my Alternator!!!! As the title says. I grounded out my Alternator when I was loosening the holding bolt in order to replace the belt. My ratchet touched the Rectifier stud that sticks up and whammo! I know i probably shouldnt have left the batteries hooked up but, i thought this belt swap was gonna be pretty straight forward. Needless to say I just continued with the Alt belt replacement.Forums New posts Search forums.
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Weber Sarge. As long as the part in question alt is grounded through it's case to the engineand the engine itself has a good ground to the batteryall should be good. Butin many casesover time those connections get corrodedjust like the battery cables. I usually run one heavy ground to the starter mounting earand another one that's a bit lighter to the alternator case or bottom mount.
Stops a lot of charging issues so the alt can read the current in the system and not hunt for a ground for it's field. Rudi explains this stuff better than I canhe'll be along in about 3,2, The body of the alternator is ground.
The alternator is mounted on the engine and the engine should have a ground strap to the frame. From the frame there is a ground strip to the battery. That's a long way for a ground circuit. There is a tiny ground wire on the alternator but that one goes to the voltage regulator to make sure that there is no voltage difference between the firewall where the VR is mounted and the body of the alternator.
To avoid ground problems I'll advice to make a "star" ground circuit where the battery is the center of the "star". Battery to frame, battery to engine as close as possible to the starter motor and battery to body preferable to the VR housing. I think that a PO had a ground problem and tried to solve it with a ground wire to the alternator.
Ground wire from alternator?
That's what I see in your picture. Joined May 7, Messages 4, Location erie pa. Joined Jun 17, Messages 16, Location Nys. I use a ground from alternator to the solid state voltage regulator not oem thats mounted on the fender. There have been many problems with powder coated or painted brackets not allowing the case to ground properly.
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Lately I've been experiencing an issue regarding my charging system. When I measure voltage at the battery terminals while engine is idling, it's a pretty low Revving the engine can top me out at 13V.
Does this mean the alternator is good but the battery is just not getting enough power? Because as I said the alternator DOES charge the battery slightly, but all of the power doesn't seem to be getting to the battery. One thing I did notice was the ground wire from the negative battery terminal is exposed, and oxidized it's greenI have been suspicious of that ground but before I replace it I want to know if that could possibly cause low voltage, or if the solution might be in another area.
And does that mean my alternator is outputting good power? EDIT: Problem was fixed, it was the ground cable. Run the engine at 2k RPM. Turn on all the loads blower on high, headlights on, rear defrost on, and so forth.
Measure the voltage across the battery and the big bat alternator terminal to alternator case. There are two things that you are looking for. The charging voltage should be between Also the voltage at the battery and the voltage at the alternator should be within 0. If the voltage at the battery and alternator don't match. For example the battery reads 12v and alternator reads 14v. This means that there is an issue with wiring.
While applying the same conditions as above. Put the black multimeter probe on the negative battery terminal if possible dig it into the battery post, not the terminal.
Put the red probe on the alternator case. Your looking for the voltage to be below about 0. If the voltage is higher than that examine all the negative cabling for problems. Preform the same test with the positive side. Place the red lead on the positive battery terminal if possible dig it into the battery post, not the terminal.Super stinson 108 for sale
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